8 Morphodynamics of Coastal Depositional Systems II
Thursday, 12 March 2009
1:30 PM - 5:30 PM
MEASURING AND PREDICTING SUSPENDED SEDIMENT CONCENTRATION PROFILES IN THE SURF ZONE UNDER SPILLING AND PLUNGING BREAKERS
Paper number: 8-2
Program: Theme Sessions
Time: 1:50 PM – 2:10 PM
Authors
Abstract
Sediment concentration decreases rapidly, over nearly four orders of magnitude, upward through the water column across most of the surf zone. An exception occurred at the breaker-line for the plunging case, where relatively homogeneous concentration was measured throughout the water column above 4 cm from the bed. Nearly identical sediment concentrations were measured within 3 cm from the bed near the breaker-line for both the spilling and plunging cases, despite the significant differences in bed conditions, near-bottom velocities, and turbulence intensity. While high in the water column, approximately one order of magnitude greater sediment concentration was measured at the plunging breaker line than at the spilling breaker line. Across most of the surf-bore dominated mid-surf zone, suspended-sediment concentrations were rather similar for both the plunging and spilling cases. A new model incorporating the turbulent energy generated by the different forms of wave breaking was developed and tested based on the accurate laboratory data.